One of the oddest stupidities of wine
writing in particular and wine geekdom in general is the common disdain
for white wines. Oh, we‚€™ll write about them occasionally, and we‚€™ll
even drink them as aperitifs before dinner or as cocktail wines, but we
rarely think of them as food wines ‚€“ and especially not in January. (‚€œQuelle scandale! I
saw him drinking a white wine after Labor Day!‚€)
I admit to some hypocrisy on this, because I frequently go to wine
stores to stock up on crisp, refreshing, food-friendly whites only to be
seduced by a flirtatious Aussie Shiraz, a Rhone red or some new Spanish
floozie. Then I go down to my cellar before dinner and fret, ‚€œGee, I
don‚€™t have any whites!‚€
This is a theme I‚€™ve hit on before, with ‚€œIn Defense of White Wines.‚€ But it bears repeating: White wines are often more food-friendly and more enjoyable than reds.
Case in point: the Feudi di San Gregorio Serrocielo 2004,
from the Sannio DOC in southern Italy‚€™s Campania region. The grape is
Falanghina. ‚€œFalanghina for $30???‚€ you might ask. Well, yes, it is
pricey, but there is a load of fruit and complexity here that gets
better with every sip. Lemon curd. I love lemon curd. Spice it with a
little nutmeg and some tropical fruit flavors, It features a crisp, racy
attack and enough structure to let it age well for at least another
year or two, maybe longer. But why wait?
Pair this beauty with light chicken or seafood dishes, anything with
acidity or bitterness. It is also a rare wine that pairs well with
mesclun salad in a light vinaigrette, picking up on the bitterness of
the greens with tropical fruit flavors.
Imported by Palm Bay Imports, Boca Raton, Florida.
- RT @VACommTrade: ICYMI: Great @dmwine @washingtonpost tribute to modern Virginia craft cider industry pioneer @FoggyRidgeCider Diane Flynt.‚Ä¶Tweeted 6 days ago
- @VACommTrade @washingtonpost @FoggyRidgeCider @VAWine @VisitVirginia Thanks, Todd!Tweeted 6 days ago
- @fromartz @WaPoFood As long as there‚Äôs good bread, all is fine. ūüėČTweeted 6 days ago
- RT @FoggyRidgeCider: Thanks to @dmwine for this lovely piece in @washingtonpost on my return to the orchard. Overwhelmed by the kind words‚Ä¶Tweeted 6 days ago
- I ‚Ě§ÔłŹ @LeftFootCharley #wines. So glad to have them in DC area, thanks to @chiefwino twitter.com/michwine/statu‚Ä¶Tweeted 1 week ago
Top Posts & Pages
- The Thanksgiving wine conundrum ...
- Finally, the perfect Champagne glass
- Almaviva: Chile's grand opus turns 20
- OK, so now I have tasted a Marcassin pinot noir ... and liked it!
- A Failed Tea Party with Hugh Johnson
- The resilience of Burgundy
- Jancis Robinson, Helen Turley, and "Dirty," "Underripe" Pinot Noir
- Champagne: What Glass to Choose?