TN: Feudi di San Gregorio Serrocielo 2004, $30

One of the oddest stupidities of wine
writing in particular and wine geekdom in general is the common disdain
for white wines. Oh, we’ll write about them occasionally, and we’ll
even drink them as aperitifs before dinner or as cocktail wines, but we
rarely think of them as food wines – and especially not in January. (“Quelle scandale! I
saw him drinking a white wine after Labor Day!”)
I admit to some hypocrisy on this, because I frequently go to wine
stores to stock up on crisp, refreshing, food-friendly whites only to be
seduced by a flirtatious Aussie Shiraz, a Rhone red or some new Spanish
floozie. Then I go down to my cellar before dinner and fret, “Gee, I
don’t have any whites!”
This is a theme I’ve hit on before, with “In Defense of White Wines.” But it bears repeating: White wines are often more food-friendly and more enjoyable than reds.
Case in point: the Feudi di San Gregorio Serrocielo 2004,
from the Sannio DOC in southern Italy’s Campania region. The grape is
Falanghina. “Falanghina for $30???” you might ask. Well, yes, it is
pricey, but there is a load of fruit and complexity here that gets
better with every sip. Lemon curd. I love lemon curd. Spice it with a
little nutmeg and some tropical fruit flavors, It features a crisp, racy
attack and enough structure to let it age well for at least another
year or two, maybe longer. But why wait?
Pair this beauty with light chicken or seafood dishes, anything with
acidity or bitterness. It is also a rare wine that pairs well with
mesclun salad in a light vinaigrette, picking up on the bitterness of
the greens with tropical fruit flavors.
Imported by Palm Bay Imports, Boca Raton, Florida.

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