Surrender, Dorothy!

Some restaurants let the customer be in
control of the meal. (Remember “Have it your way”?) In today’s high-end
dining establishments, however, we’ve come to revere the chef as artist,
and they can become temperamental. They may not actually be flinging
their ingredients at the wall to make a Jackson Pollack cuisine, but ask
them to substitute a side dish or an ingredient on your entreé, and
they might just fling it at you. Our parents went to restaurants to be
pampered and treated like royalty; we go to be teased, intrigued, and
sometimes so it seems, even insulted or abused.
Apparently the new restaurant Gilt
in Manhattan is a place where you have to surrender control of your
life for a few hours. At least that€™s the impression one gets from
reading the April 30 issue of Wine Spectator,
where Thomas Matthews relates his experience with the cuisine of chef
Paul Liebrandt with this hilarious exchange between diner and waiter
regarding the chef€™s tasting menu.
€œThe first time I dined at Gilt, neither its price nor its dishes were
listed, so I asked my server how much it cost,€ Matthews writes.
€œ€˜Around $135,€™ he replied. €˜It depends.€™
€œ€˜Depends on what?€™
€œ€˜On what the chef sends out.€™
€œ€˜And what might he send out?€™
€œ€˜It depends.’
€œ€˜Depends on what?€™
€œ€˜On what he has in the kitchen, and what he€™s inspired to
€œ€˜And what about the wine?€™ I asked. €˜Will the sommelier pair
wines to go with the tasting menu?€™
€œ€˜Of course.€™
€œ€˜How much does that cost?€™
€œ€˜It depends.€™€
This article is not yet on the magazine€™s Web site, but for what
it€™s worth (and apparently that can be a lot when the check comes),
Matthews concludes: €œIf you can accept some risk for the sake of
exploration, then Gilt should be on your short list of new restaurants
to try.€

This entry was posted in Uncategorized. Bookmark the permalink.

Join the Discussion!

Please log in using one of these methods to post your comment: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s