White Wine Season Over? Bah, Humbug!

If you€™ve read much of my wine rantings over the years, you know that I don€™t buy into the crapola
about white wines going out of style once the leaves turn color. White
wine will always have a place on my table (even if it is followed by a
red) in any season, and here are two that I€™ve enjoyed recently while
wearing a sweater:
Esporão Reserva 2004, Alentejo, Reguengos D.O.C., Portugal.
I was first served this wine at lunch at the Fonseca port headquarters
in Vila Nova de Gaia in September, a setting where anything was bound to
taste good. But I was just as thrilled with it when I found it at
Potomac Wines and Spirits in Georgetown for $11. Made with Portuguese
grape varieties Roupeiro, Arinto and Antão Vaz (didn€™t he have a bit
part in The Legend of Zorro?), the wine is rich and creamy in
texture (from American oak) with loads of stone fruit flavor. A great
bargain, imported by Aidil Wines & Liquors in New Jersey.
Konrad Sauvignon Blanc 2004, Marlborough, New Zealand. I bought this beauty a year or more ago at Schneiders of Capitol Hill
on the recommendation of co-owner Jon Genderson. Then I forgot about
it. Noticing the vintage recently, I figured I should drink it up before
it lost too much of that acidity that makes New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc
so delicious and develops the stewed asparagus flavor they can get
after a few years. I needn€™t have worried. This wine still packs
plenty of zest and that grapefruit flavor we€™ve come to love, along
with more of what wine geeks call €œminerality€ than I€™ve ever
tasted in a Sauvignon Blanc produced outside the Loire. This wine was
still a puppy, and a downright bargain at $16. No doubt the 2004 has
given way to the €™05 or even the €™06 on retail shelves, but I will
look for this one, buy several bottles, and do my best to forget about
it again! Imported by Southern Starz Inc., Huntington Beach, Calif.

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