This time of year,
when the heat and humidity seem to suck the very life force through our
pores, the last thing we need is a big bruiser of a red wine to do the
same thing. This is the season for lighter, refreshing reds. But that
doesn’t mean uninteresting. The tough part can be finding wines that
combine lightness and interest.
Berger Blauer Zweigelt 2006
from Austria definitely hits the mark as an ideal summertime red. It
has the weight and acidity of a good cru Beaujolais, plus the earthiness
of a pinot noir. Plummy fruit speaks of summer, and the 1-liter bottle
accentuates the wine’s inherent gulpability. It can handle spicier grill
fare like barbecued ribs, or plainer food like burgers and pizza. And
at only $11-12 for its oversized bottle, this may be the perfect red
wine for summer.
Blauer Zweigelt 2006, a Terry Theise Selection, imported by Michael
Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y., $12. Note: The importer’s Web site offers
the 2005 label, and the 2007 wines are already in distribution.