Here’s a top-notch bargain red from Washington state’s Columbia Valley – Hedges Cellars CMS Red 2006, about
half Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot for the rest with just a splash of
Syrah thrown in for good measure. All the basic elements – fruit, earth
and alcohol – are in harmonic convergence to produce a terrific wine for
casual or even more serious beef and pork dishes. This offers American
fruit and exuberance without American arrogance – in other words,
without the over-the-top oak and alcohol our wines have become known
for. It’s comfortable being an American wine. I’ll stop now before I wax
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