Gobelsburger Riesling 2007, $20

Gobelsburger Riesling
I’ll admit it – I’m a fan of dry Riesling. Sure, I like the sweet ones,
too, but a good, crisp dry Riesling can be just as thrilling as an
unctuous, honeyed nectar of a late harvest wine. The problem with dry
Riesling is that the grape’s naturally high sugars and high acidity –
the very qualities that make it so versatile – are a danger. Winemakers
trying to produce a “dry” Riesling to cater to market demand risk
disrupting the delicate balance between sugar and acidity that make
Riesling so exciting.

To be honest, I don’t care about a wine’s residual sugar, acid levels
or pH. That’s the stuff for wine geeks and German winemakers named
“Doktor.” But I do appreciate a good Riesling when those harmonic forces
come into balance.

The Gobelsburger Riesling 2007, from Schloss
Gobelsburg in Austria, is a delightfully dry Riesling. With light body
and great acidity, it tastes like a cornucopia of tropical fruit, with
some vibrant citrus notes. It makes a great partner to Riesling brauten,
a beef roast marinated and braised in Riesling, or more expected
seafood dishes.

(A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines.)

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