This is a question that can probably be asked wherever fine wines are made. In fact, it WAS raised last year in the San Francisco Chronicle,
which reported complaints by North Coast vintners about restaurants
that touted their local meats and produce but filled their lists with
imported wines. Todd Kliman took the debate national this summer with
his essay, “The Locavore Wine Hypocrisy,” on thedailybeast.com. In today’s Washington Post Food section,
I look deeper into the question, and find some intriguing arguments on
both sides to explain the problem. I also discover some area restaurants
that are making the commitment to feature the local vino.
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