Priorat, in eastern Spain, is a wine region that itself could almost be labeled as “boutique.” The wines are sun-baked, sought-after, and pricey. So when I saw a Priorat for the modest price of $15, I was skeptical, to say the least. Maybe the region’s boundaries had been expanded to increase supply to meet growing demand, I thought.
But the Cellers Unio “Señorio de Convey” 2008 won me over with my first sniff. I expected garnacha, but the spicy cranberry and sage aromas had me thinking of Carignan and the wild, wooly wines of southern France. The blend – as I discovered when I finally turned the bottle around and read the back label – is actually 50% garnacha, plus 30% mazuela (Carignan) and 20% syrah.
This is a lovely wine for the price. It is lively, with “nervosité,” and an earthy, herbal quality that lends it complexity, energy and depth.
(Imported by M Touton Selection.