Dutton Goldfield Riesling – Marin County

I can’t say I’ve tasted many wines from California’s Marin County over the years. Marin for me is the scenic, Gucci-hippie oceanside territory I drive through on my way from San Francisco to wine country. Marin is not “wine country.”

img_5212But it can make some nice Riesling. Case in point: Dutton Goldfield’s 2016 Riesling from Chileno Valley Vineyard ($30, 327 cases produced). From a 25-year-old vineyard, this wine is dry but not tart; it has ripe tree fruit flavors of apricot and quince, and a talc-like minerality that evokes Austrian Riesling or Grüner Veltliner. And regular readers will know how much I love Austrian wines. The DG is soft in its acidity, yet dry. It’s a good conversationalist — by which I mean it engages you rather than simply talking at you. You know how some people — er, I mean wines — seem all-out determined to convince you how brilliant they are? This wine is brilliant, but it knows you have something to add to the conversation. I’ll stop there before I start raving about a wine’s emotional IQ. Kudos to grower Mark Pasternak and winemakers Dan Goldfield and Jeff Restel, for their emotional IQ.

About Dave McIntyre

Wine columnist for The Washington Post, co-founder of DrinkLocalWine.com, and blogger at Dave McIntyre's WineLine (dmwineline.com).
This entry was posted in Austria, California, Riesling and tagged , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

1 Response to Dutton Goldfield Riesling – Marin County

  1. Jonathan Pey says:

    Hi there Dave. Glad you enjoyed the riesling. My late wife (Susan Pey) and I are guilty of bringing Riesling into Marin County in 2005 when we grafted over a Merlot block at this site. It is a rare (at that time) clone called Neustadt, which has a more neutral aroma, (leaning citrus) and a steely backbone. The soils have a good amount of sandstone and the site is entirely dry-farmed. Yup, dry farmed, 25 year-old Riesling vines in chilly west Marin! Harvest is usually late October and because of the cold temps we almost never see botrytis. Yields are pathetic at under 2 tons/acre. Mark Pasternak has also been farming my block and since Vintage 2007 we have been producing Pey-Marin Riesling “The Shell Mound”, Marin County, from that site. It sees a long, cool ferment with lees contact, has no oak, no malo, is under 12% alcohol and is bone, bone dry. It ages amazingly. Check it out at http://www.PeyMarin.com Cheers. Jonathan Pey

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