Dutton Goldfield Riesling – Marin County

I can’t say I’ve tasted many wines from California’s Marin County over the years. Marin for me is the scenic, Gucci-hippie oceanside territory I drive through on my way from San Francisco to wine country. Marin is not “wine country.”

img_5212But it can make some nice Riesling. Case in point: Dutton Goldfield’s 2016 Riesling from Chileno Valley Vineyard ($30, 327 cases produced). From a 25-year-old vineyard, this wine is dry but not tart; it has ripe tree fruit flavors of apricot and quince, and a talc-like minerality that evokes Austrian Riesling or Grüner Veltliner. And regular readers will know how much I love Austrian wines. The DG is soft in its acidity, yet dry. It’s a good conversationalist — by which I mean it engages you rather than simply talking at you. You know how some people — er, I mean wines — seem all-out determined to convince you how brilliant they are? This wine is brilliant, but it knows you have something to add to the conversation. I’ll stop there before I start raving about a wine’s emotional IQ. Kudos to grower Mark Pasternak and winemakers Dan Goldfield and Jeff Restel, for their emotional IQ.

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Christmas in Vienna

This gallery contains 14 photos.

Last year, I was lucky enough to spend this week in Vienna, Austria, for my day job. During the evenings, I braved the December cold to visit the city’s Christmas markets. My goal was to explore the city’s food, enjoy … Continue reading

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Wednesday wine recommendations, 12/6/2017

This week’s recommendations include two delicious wines made from Semillon, a grape too often ignored by producers and consumers. Plus, we have an exotic white wine from Italy, an intriguing “natural” wine made of grenache from southern France, and an inexpensive Champagne that shows this luxury wine does not have to command luxury prices.

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Mendel, in Argentina’s Mendoza region, has long produced an excellent Semillon.

Mendel Semillon 2016

3 Stars

Mendoza, Argentina, $26

I’ve always wondered why Semillon is not more popular with winemakers or consumers. Traditionally, it plays second fiddle to sauvignon blanc in white Bordeaux, but it can be delicious on its own. It has more body and richness that sauvignon blanc, with flavors of fig and pear and delightful, refreshing acidity. Mendel’s Semillon is racy and intense, with impressions of stones and minerals more than fruit. The acidity will help it age well, but it drinks beautifully now, especially if you open it about an hour before dinner. ABV: 13 percent.

Distributed by Bacchus in the District and Maryland, Roanoke Valley in Virginia: Available in the District at Wide World of Wines. Available in Maryland at Wine Merchant in Lutherville. Available in Virginia at Grand Cru in Arlington.  

L’Ecole No. 41, Semillon 2015

2.5 Stars GREAT VALUE

Columbia Valley, Wash., $18

L’Ecole No. 41 has been a Semillon stalwart for years. This version is fruity and vibrant; it should age well for several years but is hard to resist right now. ABV: 14.5 percent.

Distributed by Country Vintner: Available in the District at Magruder’s, Rodman’s, Wardman Wines. Available in Maryland at Decanter Fine Wines in Columbia, Eastport Liquors in Annapolis, Maple Lawn Wine & Spirits in Fulton, Pine Orchard Liquors in Ellicott City. Available in Virginia at Aldie Peddler in Aldie, the Wine Outlet in Great Falls.

Chapuis & Chapuis Grenat 2016

2.5 Stars

Vin de France, $ 25

This is a “natural” wine from southern France, made from grenache. It has a bit of spritz from carbon dioxide, meant to preserve the wine in lieu of sulfur. Decanting it, or even opening the bottle and leaving it alone for several hours, will let the wine open up. It will also keep for a few days if you can resist finishing the bottle. ABV: 13.5 percent.

Distributed by Bacchus: Available in the District at Cordial (the Wharf), MacArthur Beverages. Available in Maryland at Remington Wine Company and Wine Source in Baltimore; on the list at Banditos in Easton, Marie Louise Bistro and Pen and Quill in Baltimore.

Ottella Lugana Bianco 2016

2.5 Stars

Italy, $19

Trebbiano is usually made into simple, nondescript white wines, the type you drink before getting down to business (as in, before the red wines). The Ottella Lugana, however, is a serious wine, with tropical fruit flavors to match seafood salads and pastas, or lighter poultry dishes. Simply delicious. ABV: 12.5 percent.

Distributed by Kysela: Available in the District at MacArthur Beverages, Magruder’s. Available in Maryland at College Square Liquors in Westminster, Maryland Discount Beverage Center in Cumberland, the Perfect Pour in Elkridge, Petite Cellars in Ellicott City. Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Cheese and the Italian Store in Arlington, Basic Necessities in Nellysford, Bottle & Cork in Alexandria, Classic Wines in Great Falls, Foods of All Nations in Charlottesville.

Kirkland Champagne Brut

2 Stars GREAT VALUE

Champagne, France, $20

When I was shopping at CostCo for my feature on the best-selling inexpensive wines in America, this champagne caught my eye. Not only is it inexpensive – decent champers starts at $30, and good ones generally cost $40 and up – but it is produced by Manuel Janisson. Virginia wine fans will recognize him as the French partner in Thibaut-Janisson, Virginia’s top sparkling wine. This Kirkland blend may be the sparkling wine of the year. It is perfectly balanced, with flavors of ginger, cloves and apples. ABV: 12 percent.

Exclusive to CostCo in the District and Virginia.

[Note: After this appeared in The Washington Post on Nov. 29, a reader told me of a different experience with Kirkland Champagne, with two bottles at the same party performing very differently. With big box store labels, it is always important to note the producer, when possible. My experience was limited to one bottle, and I was attracted to it because of the Janisson name. My reader did not know if the two bottles he experienced were made by the same producer or potentially two different producers. There are, of course, other reasons for bottle variation.]

Posted in Bargain Wines, Biodynamic, Champagne, France, Natural Wine, Sparkling Wine, Wine | Tagged , | Leave a comment

The Thanksgiving wine conundrum …

Every November, wine columnists warn us about the difficulty of pairing wine with the traditional turkey & trimmings we feast on at Thanksgiving. It’s all silly, and most writers hate the theme. I know I do. I’m not looking forward to writing one this year (and still may not), partly because I don’t know how I’d improve on the one I wrote last year. Here it is, posted Nov. 12, 2016, on washingtonpost.com:

All together now – deep breaths. Relax. Stay calm. Don’t sweat about the wine for Thanksgiving.

Yes, it’s time for my annual reminder that you have much more to worry about than selecting wine for the holiday feast. There’s the menu, the timing, the seating arrangements around your loud relative who won’t stop talking even as he’s stuffing his maw with your food.

To be honest, the great national anxiety over what wine to pair with turkey is a hob-gobble-goblin invented by wine writers desperate to stuff an article with sage advice to a logical question – what wine is best with the bird? A cottage industry of wine snobbery developed around the concept that turkey is a wine killer. Nonsense. A turkey is just a big chicken! Whatever you drink with chicken will do just fine with turkey.

(I’m not making this up. Hugh Johnson, the venerable British wine writer I profiled a few weeks ago, published his first article in the British edition of Vogue magazine in 1960 – about pairing wines with Christmas turkey. The article is included in an anthology, Hugh Johnson on Wine: Good Bits from 55 Years of Scribbling.)

The wine/food conundrum for Thanksgiving is the plethora of dishes, spices, and flavors on the table and on our plates, all at once, rather than in orderly courses.  Too often our food-wine pairings become food-protein pairings, and we forget the sauces, spices, textures and well, vegetables, that are also part of our dining experience. (Beware the canned cranberry sauce.)

So my usual advice: Open one of everything. Or at least, a wide assortment or wines that will match well with the variety of dishes on your Thanksgiving table. Find wines you enjoy at prices you can afford for the occasion. For example, pinot noir is a classic favorite because of its ability to play well with a variety of foods. But you may not want to buy premier cru Burgundy unless you’re having turkey dinner for two. Feel free to offer a nice pinot from Oregon or California.

Don’t think of Thanksgiving as a wine challenge but an opportunity. Make a game of it – open several wines of various grapes and styles, then compare each of them with every dish on your table. While you’re avoiding conversation with your relatives, you’ll give yourself a clinic in wine and food pairings. What you learn will carry you through until next year’s Thanksgiving.

Here’s what you should look for: Bubbles go with everything. Sparkling wines, from champagne to Spanish cava, are extremely versatile. The bubbles are palate-cleansing and refreshing, especially with salty or deep-fried dishes.

Fruity white wines, such as Riesling or Gruner Veltliner, are also friendly with a wide variety of foods and flavors. From bone-dry to sweet, Riesling can match nearly every dish’s acidity, spiciness or texture. If umami could be quantified, Riesling would be off the charts, it’s so classically versatile with a wide variety of foods.

If you prefer red wines, pinot noir, barbera and gamay are classic pairs with a wine variety of foods. Syrah and nebbiolo are also good choices on the heavier end of the spectrum. More powerful reds such as cabernet sauvignon or merlot can clash with your buffet due to their tannins and astringency.

This year, I’ll be thankful for friends and family, as well as this wonderful country of ours. And I’ll be especially thankful there is plenty of wine in my house.

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It’s not about the #wine.

This is a slightly revised version of my column published October 12 on washingtonpost.com.

As I write this, fires continue to spread across Northern California’s wine country for a sixth day, and it is still impossible to estimate the full impact of this catastrophe. Just this morning, new evacuation orders were issued for parts of Sonoma and Healdsburg, and a new fire erupted in Lake County. People are still fleeing their homes and desperately trying to protect their families, pets, and livelihoods.

If you’ve ever visited Napa or Sonoma counties, you know someone affected by this disaster. Maybe you have friends or family there, or a favorite winery you visit and order wine from every time you’re in the area. Perhaps you remember that cheerful woman who poured you a taste at Signorello winery in Napa’s Stags Leap District or at Paradise Ridge winery near Santa Rosa, where you lingered to watch the sun set into the Pacific in the distance. Perhaps that waiter who so enthusiastically explained the daily specials and the wonderful zinfandel available by the glass at Willi’s Wine Bar. Signorello, Paradise Ridge and Willi’s are gone, as are many more of our favorite places to stay, visit or taste.

On the second morning – Tuesday, October 10 – NPR aired a piece by a KQED reporter who visited the Atlas Peak area of Napa County, where the first fires broke out late on the evening of October 8. She spoke of million-dollar homes consumed, “Bentleys burnt to their metal frames,” and an infinity pool “cracked by the intense heat of the flames.” I shouted at my radio: What about the winery workers who live in the valley, or the migrant laborers who came north for the harvest? A mobile home retirement community in Santa Rosa was decimated, as were several stores and fast food restaurants.  The charred hulks of cars in the news photos were Corollas and Civics, not Bentleys. Those hotels that burned down, the Hilton and the Fountaingrove Inn – rich people didn’t stay or work there. This is a calamity for everyone, not just the wealthy.

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Defining terroir with technology

I was thinking of writing a column exploring the concept of “terroir” and its different meanings for wine lovers and winemakers. But a quick search of my past columns on washingtonpost.com reveals this from February 2015. Been there, done that. Not that I don’t repeat myself on occasion, but …

Terroir may sound romantic, but to some winemakers, it’s precise

 

Terroir is a word with almost mystical charm for wine lovers. And no wonder: It’s French, and therefore romantic. It allows us to stretch out the second syllable with that raspy, guttural sound – “ter-HWAHH” — that speaks of sophistication and savoir faire. And it has no real definition, so we can use it any way we want without fear of contradiction. Terroir is what we want it to be.

[2017 interjection: In the redux, I was going to describe the second syllable as “somewhere between a pirate’s “arrrrrr” and a lecher’s “rrrrwowrrrr.”]

Terroir may lack definition, but it has meaning. When most wine lovers bandy the word about, we mean “a sense of place.” That is to say, a wine shows terroir if it tastes like it came from somewhere. See what I mean? It makes perfect sense.

Terroir is part of a romantic, anti-modernist, anti-technology vision of a lonely artisan winemaker toiling in her vineyard to produce a wine that could only have been grown there — not halfway around the world, not even on the next hillside.

Many wines taste as if they could have come from anywhere, products of modern technology that strips wine of not only any faults but also its character. Terroir is part of a romantic, anti-modernist, anti-technology vision of a lonely artisan winemaker toiling in her vineyard to produce a wine that could only have been grown there — not halfway around the world, not even on the next hillside.

[ Four wines to help you through the winter chill.  Remember, this was published in February.]

Bordeaux winemakers define terroir not with romance, but with precision. In the Médoc, along the left bank of the Gironde River, the top of a “slope” might only be a few meters above sea level, yet that detail might determine whether a vine’s grapes go into a chateau’s premier wine or a second label.

At Château Pichon Baron, a renewed micro-focus on terroir has influenced gradual changes in style of the wine, says Jean-René Matignon, Pichon Baron’s technical director and winemaker.

“We are more focused on the best terroirs of our chateau and trying to be very precise in our selection of grapes,” Matignon said during a recent visit to Washington. “It’s very important for our blend.”

Pichon Baron is a historic estate, a “second growth” in the famous 1855 classification of Bordeaux chateaux. Since 1987 it has been part of AXA Millésimes, a company that owns several wineries in France and Portugal. Under AXA’s stewardship, the vineyards have been improved and a new modern winery built. The efforts have borne fruit, as critics have cited improvement in Pichon Baron’s wines over the past 15 years.

Until 2012, the winery was known as Pichon-Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville. Simplification of the winery’s name signals perhaps the completion of this transformation. (I’d rather have a mouthful of the wine than a mouthful of a name.)

As Matignon and his team have studied their terroir, the blend has increasingly emphasized cabernet sauvignon. That might not seem like much; Pichon Baron is in Pauillac, prime cabernet country. And cab has always dominated, forming about 65 to 70 percent of the blend depending on the year, with the rest usually merlot and cabernet franc. With the 2010 vintage, though, cabernet sauvignon became nearly 80 percent of the blend.

“Technology helps us be more precise in our selection of grapes and in blending our wines,” [Matignon] said. “It gives us more control.”

Matignon was in Washington to present several vintages of Pichon Baron at a dinner for Bordeaux lovers organized by Panos Kakaviatos, a Bordeaux fiend and contributor to Decanter magazine. As we tasted wines from 2000 to 2010, with 1989 and 1990 thrown in to show how the wines age, Matignon explained how two factors have contributed to changes at Pichon Baron. The first was the market: The decline of the traditional Bordeaux negociants market over the past 30 years shifted power away from brokers and back to the chateaux, “giving us flexibility to make wines the way we want to,” he said.

And the second factor? Technology. Pichon Baron’s new winemaking facility, completed in 2006, allows Matignon to use smaller fermentation tanks to isolate wines from various parts of the vineyard, in turn allowing him to choose only the best parcels for the final blend. Matignon even refers to this as “inter-parcel selection.” If you throw all the grapes into one big vat, such distinctions are lost.

Matignon also invested in the favorite toy of winemakers everywhere, an optical sorting table. This device scans newly harvested grapes before they go into the fermenters and identifies and removes any that are not fully ripe. It is faster and more reliable than a team of trained humans.

“Technology helps us be more precise in our selection of grapes and in blending our wines,” he said. “It gives us more control.”

In the hands of a skilled winemaker, technology is not the enemy of terroir but the instrument of its finer expression.

Originally published on washingtonpost.com on February 21, 2015.

Posted in Bordeaux, Terroir, Washington Post, Wine | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

Chatting up the best and worst of cheap wines

I had fun yesterday taking a long lunch break from my day job to participate in the weekly online chat for The Washington Post’s Food section. My feature published that day on rating the best-selling U.S. wine brands inspired a lot of questions. We discussed the merits of oaked and unoaked chardonnay, cheap wine vs. not-so-cheap wine, and well, you get the idea.

Readers also asked about the best wines from the southern hemisphere (Argentine Chardonnay or South African Chenin Blanc, anyone?), the rise in alcohol levels, and why cheap imported wines are consistently better than domestics at the same price level.

No discussion of local wines really, though I managed to work in a Virginia Chardonnay. We’ll have to work on that for next time.

Posted in Argentina, Cheap Wine, Chile, Too Much Alcohol!, Washington Post, Wine, Wine Humor | Tagged | 2 Comments